Rome is a city that gets better each time you visit. I have some friends who come back from their first trip there and haven’t fallen in love. “Keep going”, is my advice. The first visit is always consumed with hitting the major tourist spots which can be busy with long, hot lines. Maybe I had the advantage of taking my first visit many years ago before the crowds descended. A great way to get the tourist spots out of the way is to watch “Roman Holiday” with Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck. The movie is a treat but the armchair travel to the inconceivably empty Coliseum, Forum and Spanish Steps lets you see the sights without any hassle. And then, you can go or go back and just enjoy the food, the people, the history, the architecture, the design, and the easy Italian lifestyle.

When we are in Rome, we like to pretend we are Romans enjoying the city at a leisurely pace and looking to fill up on the beauty and inspiration of this eternal city. Our visit last spring was the bookend of our Country Walkers trip to the Amalfi Coast (more about that in another post). So, after a week of the sea and a lot of exercise, we were ready to indulge ourselves in the culture of the city.

I happen to believe that where you stay is the most important part of any trip. Some may say that the hotel is just a place to sleep but I feel that it is the place to set the tone of and immerse yourself in your destination. In Rome, the Portrait Suites is the perfect spot. It is just off the bustle of the Via Condotti on Via Bocca di Leone. The building is a town house with an intimate reception area and fully equipped rooms – kitchen, living spaces, bedrooms and a luxurious bathroom. Our favorite spot is the roof top deck with amazing city views. Take breakfast there and you may never leave. We loved heading up for a cocktail (at the fully stocked, self-service shed where you will find the fixings for any cocktail you could dream of as well as a wide assortment of bar snacks). You may find yourself late for dinner as you linger over the view and the setting sun.

On this trip, we spent many hours zigzagging our way along the streets that run north of the Via Condotti. Our favorite, the Via Margutta which has great design stores, wonderful elegant shopping and perfectly Roman local restaurants. It also happens to be the street that Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck lived on in “The Roman Holiday” – number 51 .

Ray and I travel for a whole host of reasons, but some of the most rewarding are the inspiration and resources we uncover for our clients. On this trip, as we wandered, strolled, meandered (or any other term for slow aimless walking) along Via Margutta, I was struck by the gorgeous concentric circle designs patterned in the street stones. For some reason, those circles clicked with me. And, the next day we hooked up with Claudia Polilener, our off-the-beaten-track tour guide who took us to the studio of Mosaic artist Alessandra Piovano on Via Dell’Orso. That’s where it came full circle for me (sorry for the pun) – I could work with Alessandra and create a future piece for a client incorporating those concentric circles. The plan is ready, just need to find the right spot for it.

I couldn’t write about Rome without talking about the food. As you may know, I am pretty particular about my food choices – no meat, dairy, wheat, milk – which may lead you to believe that there would be limited options for me in Rome. But, the restaurants here do not disappoint. Here are a few with great selections for vegetarians:

– Il Margutta (Vegetarian) on Via Margutta
– Ecru (Vegan!) on Via Acciaioli
– Ginger Sapori e Salute on Via Borgognona
– Life (our favorite with something for everyone) on Via della Vite

We will be back soon and look forward to discovering more about this enchanting and magnificent city.

Ciao for now!

Susan & Ray